At the holy places of Kosovo and Metohija
We lived with the terrifying thought that everyone has abandoned and forsaken us here, in our native land. But everything is different these days! People come to Kosovo and Metohija: they stay, travel and talk to us, Kosovo Serbs. Life seemingly goes on!
Recently, in just one day, the tiny town of Orahovac in southern Kosovo and Metohija saw an influx of hundreds of pilgrims
Recently, Kosovo Serbs were stunned—this time from joy. The tiny town of Orahovac in southern Kosovo and Metohija was inundated with hundreds of pilgrims who arrived there in a single day. This is something unheard of in our time and in our situation. And, as if that weren’t enough: the towns and villages known for its Orthodox shrines, and where Serbs still live, had practically no vacancies in their hotels—we had to ask the locals if we could spend the night with them. And, of course, they were happy to share their homes with us. But what happened? The reason is that, ever more often, the holy places of Kosovo and Metohija have now become frequent pilgrimage destinations not only for visitors from Serbia proper, but also from other countries, even distant ones, and the number of pilgrims is growing every year, thank God! What makes Orthodox Christians travel (and sometimes even by foot!) to places where suffering for Christ is not a poetical metaphor, but the reality of life? Why do more and more young Serbs strive to get to Prizren, Gracanica, Visoki Dečani and several other holy places of our land? What it is that Kosovo and Metohija possess that they miss in their “safe” Belgrade? I get answers to these questions from Strahinja Ivljanin, a student of the Faculty of Political Science at the University of Belgrade:
Pilgrims in Kosovo
“As soon as you turn west towards Kosovo from the highway connecting Belgrade and Thessaloniki, you begin to realize that you are entering another reality, a completely different dimension. You arrive in Visoki Dečani and you feel that you time-travelled several centuries back—time runs differently there. Or take Prizren—sure, it has practically no Serbs living there anymore, but you have this gut feeling that the town is still ours, it is Orthodox, it is Serbian! You cannot describe this feeling with words—I think you can only experience it once you are in Kosovo and Metohija. On the one hand, I feel ashamed, but on the other hand, it is also surprising and brings joy. It is only when I’m here that I realize I am a Serb and an Orthodox Christian. I go back to my people and I begin to understand what the Church, its priesthood, and monasticism mean to me. The genuine, heartfelt hospitality, the embraces, the joyful gratitude that we still remember, the stories about life of the recent past and what is going on there now… I am convinced that every Serb, if he thinks of himself as such, simply must visit Dečani, the Patriarchate of Pec, and Gračanica—at least once! And experience has shown that if you have ever visited Kosovo and Metohija once, you will always long to return to our holy places.
Strahinja Ivljanin with pilgrims
Yes, the majority comes back, and many more come for the first time. They feel they need to be in Kosovo—as if it’s the living water of the holy Serbian spring. Marija Nesic often comes to Kosovo, but this time she came with her friend Marija Djordjevic, a first-time visitor here. The two ladies tell us what brought them here for the first time and what makes them want to come back again and again.
Once you come here, you begin to better understand the meaning of the words, “the Church is founded on the blood of martyrs.” Say what you like, but there is enough suffering in Kosovo
“It is truly some kind of a primary need, a search for one’s roots, an aspiration to feel the light, or even holiness. Here you better understand the meaning of the words, “the Church is based on the blood of martyrs”—say what you like, but there is enough suffering in Kosovo. But this is a special kind of suffering—for Christ—that’s what you perceive here. Sure, it is also your native history and the cultural heritage of your people that you begin to understand here not distantly, but with your whole being. And yes, this is our homeland, our cradle. I will never forget, as we were getting closer to the monastery of Visoki Dečani and we had a really powerful, bright feeling. Or, when you come to the monastery of the Patriarchate of Pec—it is as if you are coming home to see your mother after a long absence. You would later even hear and say the word “shrine” differently, more consciously, or something like that,” says Marija Djordjevic.
The two Marijas—Nesic and Djordjevic Marija Nesic is a native of Belgrade. She first came to Kosovo because of work, but the peace, the special spirit of the holy land and the Orthodox inhabitants of the region literally won over her heart forever. “No more,” she says, ”I can't do without Kosovo.”
“I have such an impression that Kosovo Serbs live in peace with God. Every time I visit you guys, I see something new, bright and kind. Every single time, I say it again! It is, you know, a real Christian inspiration. I was tormented by doubt before my last trip. “If we place everything in our lives in God’s hands, will everything be all right? Will it surely be so?” So, here’s the answer I had received during my pilgrimage and it convinced me: “Just relax, God will definitely work it all out. Everything will be all right—just trust Him.” Interestingly, I never ever felt fear or panic during the pilgrimage. God will indeed take care of everything. It may even seem odd—you are on occupied land, in a hostile environment—a ton of reasons to feel afraid. But your heart is filled with peace and complete trust in Christ. It is a really powerful feeling and I hope it will accompany me at all times. So it is an urgent need—to be at our holy shrines and pray there. I first traveled to the Draganac Monastery, then to Gracanica, and only afterwards I went to the holy shrines of Metohija.”
Milena Petrovic Velika Hoca is not just some village in the south of the region; it has become our symbol. A symbol of patience, faith, resistance, and beauty—and not just by its appearance. That’s why the village even is known as Maly (or Lesser—Trans.) Hilandar. Or, the pearl of Metohija. It is truly the “pearl”—and not only because of the number of churches, monasteries, and historical and cultural monuments, but also because of its people, whose kindness and love conquer the hearts of all who come with peace. Milena Petrovic, MA in Literature, from Velika Hoca, says:
“There are churches and a monastery here, the tower of Lazar Kujundžić, the manor house, ancient frescoes, songs dating back to the Middle Ages, old customs and traditions. This is not just some “cultural heritage,” but real life, living history, unfolding before your eyes, when you see and feel it. It is the land of wine makers, our famous wines from Metohija. Every household makes wine—not according to some recipe books, but from recipes arising from their soul and those ancient times. Wine in this case is not simply a drink, but rather a kind of testimony to the unity of the times, the spirit, and the struggle. Anyone who tastes it would sense the sun, the joy of prayer and the labor on the native land. Peter Handke, writer and Nobel laureate, has once said that people come here not simply to enjoy its obvious beauty, as tourists. One feels here something truly deep and really important—something you probably can’t even explain, but without which life loses all meaning and joy.”
Milena with guests
Pilgrimages to Kosovo and Metohija enliven the walls of Visoki Dečani with the warmth of wax candles, shower the miracle-working icons of the Patriarchate of Pec with tears, and restore spiritual sight to the people. Every day and every hour, Kosovo is praying for all Orthodox Christians, and Serbs regain hope. This is not a metaphor, but a real thing, believe me! But for the locals, pilgrimages also mean a lot from a material perspective. Here is what Kata Brkic says:
“First and foremost, according to my observations, the locals no longer feel isolated: they see the newcomers, who are deeply interested in their life, who are genially disposed to them, and also curious. In other words, you are no longer an unwilling recluse somewhere behind barbed wire, but a worthy local resident, a host, who will readily tell and show you everything about your life here, or just exchange a few words with compatriots in your native language. Or, as someone who will tell a story or two to the young people. Also, there is an opportunity to rent out a room to pilgrims, or an apartment for longer stays, or to sell handmade souvenirs and wine—an honest living will only do good. Maybe it’s not a lot, but still good. But the major thing, I repeat, is the opportunity to communicate.”
Meanwhile, following the Sunday Liturgy, just as the last bus with pilgrims left Orahovac, the Serbian Orthodox Church’s flag was burned here. This announcement followed a joyful report about the growing number of Orthodox pilgrims visiting the holy shrines in the region. Next came more news: the Independent Kosovo police detained twelve Serbian pilgrims in Djakovica and Prizren. Any evidence, any motives? Oh please, it’s nonsense for the current authorities! “Might is right!” Are you a Serb? Orthodox? Take that! We who live in the occupied region are not in the least surprised by this. Scary as it may sound, we have already gotten used to destruction, arson, and lawlessness. How do we oppose it? By prayerfully rebuilding what’s been destroyed. Not just the walls or roofs, but more so—our souls.
We aren’t afraid. Because we know why we suffer—for Him and with Him…
Our region has seen a lot of suffering. So much hatred, persecution... It seemed at one time that our songs would finally die away, that the wine for the liturgy from Velika Hoca and Orahovac would dry up, and the light of hope would go out for those who stayed here. But, you know, something has changed as of late, despite all those things: life seemingly rebounds here. Pilgrims are coming back and they bring the most important thing—hope. Our writer Zivojin Rakocevic once said, “No one can endure and wait as long as a Serb from Kosovo.” And I think that’s true! The fact that so many Orthodox pilgrims come to our long-suffering region, and this time around we had hundreds of them, isn’t just a piece of information—it is a sign that the Serbs haven’t yet forgotten who they are. I remember the empty streets, the blank stare, despondency, almost the despair of my fellow villagers some years ago. But thank God, it is changing these days. It seems like hope has come back to our land. Sure, our enemy is trying to instill fear. But what are his attempts when Christ Himself says: In the world ye shall have tribulation; but be of good cheer; I have overcome the world (John 16:33). So no—we aren’t afraid! Because we know why we suffer: for Him and with Him. When you are with Christ, there is no room for fear—check it out for yourself.
