Photo: Valaam.ru
“O wondrous island of Valaam! The hand of Divine Providence built here a paradisiac monastery, a habitation of the highest purity,” these are the opening words of the hymn in honor of the Holy Transfiguration Monastery, surrounded by Europe’s largest lake, Ladoga. Those who are lucky enough to go there are amazed at the stunning beauty of the nature of the Valaam Archipelago (in the Republic of Karelia within the Russian Federation), as well as the unique monastery located on the islands, its history and the splendor of its buildings.
The founders of the Valaam Monastery are the holy Monks Sergius and Herman, who came to the Russian land from eastern countries. Details of their biographies have not survived, but their relics rest beneath the shrine of the Monastery’s Transfiguration Cathedral.
The Valaam Archipelago, consisting of around fifty islands, is surrounded by the waters of Lake Ladoga. It is often referred to as a “sea-lake” by virtue of its size and turbulent nature. The waves on its vast expanses now rise up, now recede and foam, crashing noisily against the bank…
The history of the Valaam Monastery, like these waves, knows periods of prosperity and development, followed by devastation, to the point of complete destruction. “The fate of Valaam is changeable,” a chronicler wrote, trying to convey on paper the milestones of the history of this unique place.
After the Baptism of Russia, the Valaam Monastery became a bastion of Orthodoxy in the northern lands. Since ancient times the Ladoga region had been inhabited by pagan tribes, which afterwards formed the surrounding states. The Valaam Archipelago was repeatedly ravaged by the Vikings, but subsequently it was revived again and again.
In the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries among the monks of the Valaam Monastery were the future founders of other monasteries, such as Sts. Alexander of Svir, Sabbatius (Savvaty) of Solovki, Arsenius of Konevets, and many others.
The Skete of St. Alexander of Svir. Valaam.ru
Valaam Monastery is dedicated to the Transfiguration of the Lord Jesus Christ. 2,000 years ago, in faraway Palestine, on Mt. Tabor, the Savior was transfigured before His disciples, revealing to them the radiance of the Heavenly Kingdom and in part revealing the mystery of the glory of the age to come.
On Valaam, the nearly 100-foot-high hill upon which the monastery was built was named “Tabor”, mentally transporting all the monks and pilgrims of the monastery to Palestine, spiritually uniting these places.
The land of Valaam is rich in its ascetics, who with their labors and prayers for centuries have transformed the harsh cliffs of the Russian North that are difficult of access.
The “Mount Tabor” of Valaam is a hill at the foot of which the monks of the monastery used to extract stone in ancient times. And in the nineteenth century, they began to cultivate the land and plant fruit trees and shrubs. And now, on the site of the former quarries, we can see blooming orchards—the fruit of the labors of the monastery’s brethren, which transforms the harsh rocks and human souls alike.
On top of “Mount Tabor” rises the main church—the beauty and pride of Valaam. It was constructed in the late nineteenth century on the site of the earlier cathedrals. Its bell tower soars high into the sky, its crosses shine with gold, and its bells ring, spreading their jubilant sounds over the vast expanses of Lake Ladoga.
The Transfiguration Cathedral of the Valaam Monastery was built by professional architects, the monks also took part in the difficult construction work, along with the frescoing and decoration of the edifice. In the nineteenth century, there were several icon painting workshops and an art school at the monastery.
In the twentieth century, the Valaam Monastery was closed, and its churches and beautiful paintings were destroyed. The monastery ended up on the territory of Finland, and then there were a Naval School for Boatswains and a home for disabled war veterans of Karelia on the archipelago. And finally, since the 1990s, prayers to the Lord have been offered up again on the site of the ascetic labors of countless ancient monks of the Valaam Monastery.
The principal cathedral of the monastery has two stories: the spacious upper church is dedicated to the feast of the Transfiguration of the Lord. It has excellent acoustics, and its restored murals are resplendent with bright colors.
The lower church is dedicated to Sts. Sergius and Herman of Valaam. The holy relics of the founders of the monastery are kept in it. Low vaulted ceilings and Greek stasidia (monastic stalls) remind everyone entering the church that Valaam is nicknamed the “Northern Mount Athos”. The lower church houses several icons from Greece and Mt. Athos. Electric lighting is not used here during services, and the church is lit only by candles.
The Divine Liturgy is celebrated daily at the monastery, as well as a prayer service to Sts. Sergius and Herman, or to the wonderworking Valaam Icon of the Mother of God and St. Antipas of Valaam (†1882).
The fully restored Transfiguration Cathedral was consecrated in 2006 by His Holiness Patriarch Alexei II, who as a boy visited Valaam with his parents and kept his love and reverence for this wonderful place throughout his life. The Patriarch noted that the revival of Valaam Monastery in the twentieth century was a miracle of God’s mercy.
In the nineteenth century, the number of brethren reached 1,000, sketes were established on the archipelago, and some of the monks lived as hermits in the secluded corners of the Valaam Archipelago. Today, ancient sketes are being revived and new ones are being built.
Indeed modern Valaam is the “Northern Mount Athos” in terms of the diversity of forms of spiritual life.
Hundreds of pilgrims and tourists arrive in Valaam every day. Sometimes they don’t know what exactly awaits them here. People expect to get impressions and “recharge their batteries” from the modern fast pace of life.
High-speed boats and multi-storied ships from St. Petersburg, Priozersk and Sortavala moor at the Valaam berths on the waters of Lake Ladoga.
Travelers go up the worn steps of “Mount Tabor” and visit the Church of the Transfiguration of the Lord. For many, a meeting with the Lord Himself takes place here. As it was 2,000 years ago, the Lord fills the hearts and souls of those coming with light, joy, and the radiance of the Heavenly Kingdom.
Having touched the awesome beauty of Karelia, the harmony of nature and man, and the reverent and unique services, many pilgrims and tourists leave Valaam absolutely transformed.
O wondrous island of Valaam!
The Hand of Divine Providence
Built a paradisiac monastery here,
A habitation of the highest purity!
Leap up, O mountains of Valaam
Under the shadow of the Creator’s mercy!
May praise and glory to Him from us
Be forever, endlessly!
