Cathedral Church, Chur
When you come to Switzerland for the first time, the country leaves an overall positive impression. There is an air of orderliness, good organization, and a high standard of living. In this part of the world, the incredible beauty of alpine nature and numerous sights seamlessly blend with an opportunity to enjoy safe and comfortable public transportation, clean streets, high-quality drinking water and food products. True, local prices are three times higher than in Belarus, but the salaries of local residents also several times exceed the average Belarusian income.
The exterior of Catholic-Protestant facade conceals a somber process of a disappearing Christian identity
For many of our fellow citizens, Switzerland is associated with Catholicism and, to a large extent, Protestantism, because Calvin lived and worked in Geneva, and Zwingli was in Zurich (they became the founders of new trends within the Reformation). The bell towers of Catholic and Protestant churches, some often hundreds of years old, tower over the streets of Swiss towns and villages—an indication that the country has lived peacefully for two centuries without wars, cataclysms or large-scale crises (never experiencing the catastrophic destruction of war and challenges of post-war reconstruction). It is true though that the country’s Catholic-Protestant facade conceals a somber process of their disappearing Christian identity. This is not only because a progressively smaller number of people pray and attend church services (nowadays, one-third of the Swiss population doesn’t belong to any denomination at all), but also because Switzerland has adopted and endorsed liberal laws in the sphere of morality and ethics. It allows abortion, same-sex “marriage” and euthanasia—in general, a “full set” advocated by liberal “progressives.” “Death tourism” (to get euthanasia) is, sadly, one of the reasons why some people visit the country in the Alps.
But there is also another Switzerland—maybe not as popular, but still, the one that reveals itself to anyone who is willing to learn about it in a different light. It is more spiritual and blessed. It is the country of new Orthodox parishes, and where the old parishes receive new members, both migrants and locals. This is the Switzerland that gave the world many saints canonized by the Orthodox Church. We can pray to these saints and venerate their relics in various parts of the country that were spared from the steamroller of the Protestant battle against holy relics. Andermatt, Delemont, St. Maurice—these are the names of only several of places where the Orthodox can kneel at the relics of local saints.
St. Lucius Church (Chur)
My first encounter with the Swiss saints took place in the town of Chur in the eastern part of the country (Graubünden canton). It is a small town (forty thousand inhabitants), but well visited by tourists (this is where the famous Bernina Express route begins) and (to a lesser extent) by pilgrims. Here, in the crypt of the Church of St. Lucius, there is a small reliquary with the relics of the Chur saints—Hieromartyr Lucius and Martyr Emerita (second century A.D.). According to tradition, Lucius was the first bishop of Chur. It is also believed (though disputed by some historians) that before becoming a bishop Lucius was king of Brittany (where he converted to Christianity) and later left his homeland to preach the Gospel in Raetia (a province in the Roman Empire that included the territory of present-day Graubünden). Here he was seized by pagans and sentenced to death by the Roman governor of the province. The bishop was beheaded in the fortress of Martiola. His martyrdom dates to around the end of the second century, and some sources say it occurred around 180 AD. Martyr Emerita was the saint’s sister, who preached the Gospel in Raetia along with her brother. She was martyred and burned at Trimmas (a settlement near Chur). Their memory is celebrated on December 15 (St. Lucius) and 17 (St. Emerita).
Interior of the St. Lucius Church (Chur, Switzerland)
The Church of St. Lucius in Chur was built at the place of the saint’s burial. It is located on a hill in the southern part of the town within approximately a twenty-minute walk from the train station. To get to the relics, a pilgrim must go down to the crypt underneath the main altar (the crypt is said to have been built in the sixth century), which has another altar. There are entrance stairs to a semicircular tunnel on either side of the lower altar. Midway through the tunnel, you will see the entrance to yet another small altar with a small reliquary resting on the altar stone. It is dark underground, but pilgrims can turn on the lights (the light switches are located to the right of the tunnel entrance). The Church of St. Lucius is open during the day and it is free for anyone who wishes to enter.
The reliquary with the relics of the Holy Hieromartyr Lucius and Martyr Emerita (Chur, Switzerland)
However, if you choose to pray at the shrine, do so with caution: Catholics have placed in the reliquary not only particles of the relics of St. Lucius and St. Emerita, but also the remains of their “saints” Fidelis of Sigmaringen (sixteenth century) and Nicholas of Flue (fifteenth century). Therefore, not all Orthodox clergy look favorably upon holding prayer services there. Incidentally, contrary to opinion often spread in various sources, the Cathedral Church of Chur has no relics of saints revered by the Orthodox. Its rector, whom I chanced upon near the cathedral, has confirmed this fact to me. A treasure museum (Domschatzmuseum) at the cathedral has reliquaries, but even they stand empty now—they have no relics of saints.
The saints of Chur pray for their people, the Swiss land, and all those who seek their prayerful intercession
But regardless of they where the relics are kept in Chur, we understand perfectly that the saints of Chur who stand at the Throne of God are praying for their people, their land and for all those who seek their prayerful intercession. I think it is no coincidence that the only Orthodox congregation in Chur has met for many years in the Church of St. Lucius. Priest Bogdan Mare (from Romania) celebrates Divine Liturgy there almost every Sunday, uniting the Orthodox faithful of Graubünden in prayerful appeal to Christ together with all the saints of Chur.
