In the northern, wide open spaces of the lakes, fields, and coniferous forests of stunning Karelia is a lonely area called Chelmagora, or Chelma Hill, where St. Cyril (commemorated December 8/21) lived as a desert dweller. According to his Life, “This place had a hill that was not very large, but covered with berries and trees, and this hill was very beautiful, and no man ever lived here before; and St. Cyril rejoiced exceedingly in spirit and loved it greatly. ‘This is my dwelling and rest unto the ages of ages, here I am glad, for the Lord has willed and shown love for my soul,’ said the saint, and dug a cave to live in until he could build a log chapel and hut.”
He would go on to war with the demons that came after his life, calm the fury of local pagans, and enlighten with the gospel many native Karelians, a Finnish people.
Although almost nothing is left of the large monastery later built on this site, St. Cyril’s grave is still a place of pilgrimage. The trip from the town of Kargopol, through nearly roadless, dense forests and across the glassy Lyekshma Lake, is well worth the effort it takes to arrive at the grave of this great ascetic. It is a feast for the eyes that leads to a feast of the spirit…
